A few blocks from the film studios’ offices, the LaVilla district rang with another kind of genius — a center of Black business, jazz, and blues through the 1910s, ’20s, and ’30s, and the boyhood home of the writer and civil-rights leader James Weldon Johnson, who with his brother wrote Lift Every Voice and Sing in Jacksonville in 1900, while he was principal of the Stanton School. The song went out from this city to the nation. LaVilla’s enterprise built fortunes too: A.L. Lewis, Jacksonville’s first Black millionaire and founder of the Afro-American Life Insurance Company, created American Beach on the sands to the north — a seaside haven for Black families in the segregation era. LaVilla’s stages hosted the great touring acts of the era, and its story is being told again today in a district the city is bringing back block by block.
The Navy settled the river in the 1940s — Naval Air Station Jacksonville in 1940, Naval Station Mayport at the river’s mouth in 1942 — and shipyards worked around the clock through the war; the carriers and the naval air overhead have been part of the city’s weather ever since. In 1968 Jacksonville and Duval County consolidated into a single government, and the city woke up the largest by land area in the contiguous United States: room enough inside the limits for the Atlantic beaches — off which the North Atlantic right whale, the most endangered of the great whales, comes to calve each winter — 80,000 acres of parks, the centuries-old Treaty Oak on the Southbank, Friendship Fountain facing the skyline, and the cable-stayed sweep of the Dames Point Bridge downriver.
Why People Visit Jacksonville Florida
- Look up at the Laura Street Trio and the St. James Building downtown — the Prairie School rebuild of 1901 standing in straight modern lines.
- Walk both Riverwalks past Friendship Fountain, with the skyline across the north-flowing St. Johns.
- Stand under the Treaty Oak on the Southbank — a live oak centuries older than the city around it.
- Spend a beach day at Jacksonville Beach, Neptune Beach, or Atlantic Beach — the barrier islands are inside the city limits.
- Visit Fort Caroline National Memorial and the Timucuan Preserve for the French colony of 1564, the river marshes the Timucua knew, and the preserved, sobering history at Kingsley Plantation.
- Photograph the fallen giants of Boneyard Beach on Big Talbot Island, and swim at Little Talbot or Hanna Park.
- Ride the tiny St. Johns River Ferry at Mayport and eat local shrimp where the boats come in.
- Browse the historic districts — San Marco’s 1920s square, Five Points, Riverside-Avondale’s leafy streets, Springfield’s restored blocks, and Mandarin on the river — where Harriet Beecher Stowe wintered and wrote.
- Catch the LaVilla story downtown, where the Harlem of the South once rang with jazz and blues.