The Esselen people lived along this coast and in the Santa Lucia high country for thousands of years before the Spanish ever named it — el país grande del sur, the big country to the south of Monterey, which time wore down to Big Sur. Homesteaders, ranchers, and lumbermen followed in the late 1800s, working sawmills and limekilns in the canyons; Charles Henry Bixby ran a landing and a mill on the creek that still carries his name. For all of them the coast was magnificent and nearly impassable — the only land route turned eleven miles inland just to get around a single creek. That changed in 1919, when California began the Carmel–San Simeon Highway. Crews spent eighteen years cutting the roadbed into the cliffs; the Bixby Creek Bridge was completed on October 15, 1932, and the full highway opened in 1937.
Once the road opened, the coast that had hidden the homesteaders began to draw the writers. A mid-century artists' and writers' colony took root in the canyons — Henry Miller settled here in the 1940s — and in 1962 the Esalen Institute opened on the cliffs above the hot springs, at the heart of the human-potential movement. The rest of Big Sur stayed wild on purpose: a string of state parks backed by the Ventana Wilderness and Los Padres National Forest, McWay Falls dropping eighty feet onto a hidden cove beach, the purple sand at Pfeiffer Beach, sea otters in the kelp, gray whales offshore, and California condors brought back from the edge of extinction riding the updrafts overhead. Big Sur is the California you can't move to — only drive through, slowly, with the windows down.
Why People Visit Big Sur California
- Stop at the Bixby Creek Bridge — the 1932 open-spandrel concrete arch, 714 feet long and 280 feet high, and the most photographed point on the Big Sur coast.
- See McWay Falls in Julia Pfeiffer Burns State Park — an eighty-foot waterfall that drops straight onto a cove beach below Highway 1.
- Walk among the coast redwoods at Pfeiffer Big Sur State Park, and find the purple-tinted sand at Pfeiffer Beach just down the road.
- Tour Point Sur Lighthouse — the 1889 light station on a volcanic rock dome rising from the sea.
- Hike the bluffs and canyons of Garrapata, Andrew Molera, and Limekiln state parks, and into the Ventana Wilderness in Los Padres National Forest.
- Watch for sea otters in the kelp, gray whales offshore in winter and spring, and California condors riding the updrafts over the cliffs.
- Drive the full Carmel–San Simeon stretch of Highway 1 — the ninety-mile coast road where the Santa Lucia Mountains meet the Pacific.
